One year in - a few thoughts

After 10 years working as a winemaker, I took the plunge and started my own wine label last year. Now, nearing my one-year anniversary, I have some thoughts.

I came across an article in Wine Business Monthly listing the 50 largest wineries and, I have to say, the production numbers were staggering. Gallo, listed at the top, produces an estimated 94 Million cases of wine annually. That’s 223.5 million gallons. That’s 339 Olympic-Size swimming pools filled with wine.

The biggest Washington winery on the list, Chateau Ste. Michelle, is ninth, at 5 million cases. And here I am thinking I really went for it when I made 800 cases in Walla Walla last fall!

The truth, I think, is that there is the Big Wine Industry. And there’s the rest. So when I see news articles about a 10% decline in wine consumption over the last few years, I have to wonder if it’s even something I should care about. Those big companies probably leave more wine in their transfer hoses than I produce each year. Dovetail Cellars is a drop in a truckload of buckets.

My goal from the start was to build a small, community-based winery that I could manage myself (for the most part). Something in the 1000-1500 case range. That way I can maintain the highest quality standards possible, stay engaged with the product and business, and truly get to know the people who enjoy it. I’ve met some amazing people this year as we got the winery off the ground. And, to me, that’s the reason behind doing this in the first place, and the reason why wine is a thing at all.

In my opinion, part of the 10% decline in wine consumption is a slew of recent negative stories about alcohol and health. I’m not a doctor, obviously, so I won’t be giving out medical advice here, but I will link to a site called “In Defense of Wine” written by Dr. Laura Catena, a Harvard and Stanford-educated physician and fourth-generation vintner. There’s a lot of info on there about health and moderate consumption. I don’t know if our (probably) new HHS director, RFK Jr. would agree with Dr. Catena, but in the spirit of fairness and balance, check it out.

Another lesson I’ve learned this year is that things like label design and storytelling matter, as long as it’s authentic. I’m surprised every time it happens, but I’ve watched people buy my wine simply because they like how the label looks! Back in business school, I had a professor who had a great definition for the term “marketing.” He defined it as Encouraging Compelling Exchange. It’s a two-way street. And I hope I’ve put down a framework in this first year to do a better job of spreading the word in 2025.

In that spirit, I want to answer some questions I get every Saturday at the Vancouver Farmer’s Market.

Q- Why the name “Dovetail Cellars?”

A - There are multiple reasons for this name. First, I believe winemaking is a combination of science and art. Second, the name is easy to remember and the URL was available! Third, wine is meant to be enjoyed in combination with food, friends, a good book or movie, etc. Dovetail, as a verb means to Connect or Combine Precisely and Harmoniously. I think that’s a good definition for good wine as well. And lastly, my dad was a carpenter and cabinet maker. And he said you could always tell something about a craftsman by how well their dovetail joints were made. When made well, dovetail joints are both strong and beautiful.

Q- When are you getting a tasting room?

A - Let me tell you, we’re trying. Commercial real estate in Vancouver, Washington is expensive and rarely compatible with all the code requirements needed to open up a tasting room. Plus, we’re looking for just the right place. Until then, check us out at the Farmer’s Market or stop by during our monthly Community Parties. We also deliver for free locally if you are interested.

Q- What new wines are coming?

A - The next wine is a Petit Syrah blend that will be released as soon as the labels arrive, hopefully in February. I’m headed to Walla Walla at the end of the month to bottle the next two wines as well.

Q- What’s the biggest lesson you’ve learned this year?

A - Starting a winery was a big leap for me and my family. There are so many things I’ve learned that I can’t put it all in a single answer, other than this. During the harvest of 2023, I opened a fortune cookie from Panda Express that read “You are exactly where you’re supposed to be.” One year into this crazy adventure, this message rings truer than ever.

By the way, if you have questions you would like answered here in this blog, about wine, about small business, about Oregon Ducks football recruiting, shoot me an email at ben@dovetailcellars.com.